Labrador retriever puppy looking into camera

Puppy survival guide (for the owner)

Lukuaika: 75 min

Preface

Okay, let’s admit right away that this guide is not for the puppy itself, but is intended for you, the future dog owner. We made the guide long and comprehensive because we assume you still have time and focus to prepare for the upcoming challenge. When puppy life begins, many things change. If you have lived with children, congratulations, you already have many necessary skills. Grab a cup of coffee and read through our guide so you know how to survive the upcoming challenges.

Introduction

The arrival of a puppy at home is an exciting and joyful event. However, the puppy period with a new family member is also demanding – just like a baby, a small dog requires round-the-clock care and supervision. Many new dog owners may feel exhausted and frustrated in the midst of puppy life, but you are not alone with your feelings: nearly half of dog owners experience “puppy blues” – anxiety, frustration, or fatigue during the puppy period. Fortunately, as the puppy grows, everyday life becomes easier. This comprehensive guide provides you with the means to survive the puppy period intact. We cover all the most important areas from bringing the puppy home to training and health care. At the end of the guide, you will also find a FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) section with answers to common puppy life problems.


Remember that every puppy and owner are individuals. There is a wealth of advice and instructions from various sources, and sometimes a new dog owner can feel caught in an information crossfire. The purpose of this guide is to gather the most essential advice – you do not have to achieve perfection, but the most important thing is to take care of the puppy’s basic needs, build a trusting relationship, and enjoy the journey. Relax, take a deep breath, and dive with us into the adventures of puppyhood!

Reading time about 30 minutes

Before the puppy arrives – preparing the home

Before the new puppy trots into the house, it is important to prepare the environment to be safe and suitable for the puppy. Start by checking your home from the “puppy’s perspective” – crouch down to floor level and see what the curious little puppy can reach to explore. Remove everything you do not want the puppy to chew on or that could be dangerous. Pay special attention to the following:


  • Electric wires and toxic objects: Hide wires behind protective covers or tape them against the wall so that the puppy cannot chew on them. Also remove from the floor all toxic plants, chemicals, medicines, and small objects that the puppy could swallow. Many common decorative plants (such as poinsettia, lilies, ivy, etc.) are toxic to dogs, so place them high up or get rid of them during the puppy period.

  • Valuable items and textiles: The puppy does not understand which objects are expensive or important to you. Move valuable items and keepsakes off low shelves. Roll up the finest rugs from the floor at least during house training – it is easier to prevent urine accidents on valuable rugs than to clean them afterward. At best, the puppy needs only seconds in the presence of a “forbidden” piece of furniture or object to damage or ruin it. Do not underestimate the precisely targeted destructive power of these little chewers.

  • Apartment boundaries: Consider in advance which rooms or areas you want to keep dog-free. For example, if the puppy is not allowed in your bedroom or study even later, start the routine as soon as the puppy arrives: keep the door closed or use a baby gate if necessary to prevent the puppy from entering the forbidden area. Consistency from the start prevents confusion – the puppy will not understand why it is allowed on the sofa now as a small puppy if it is forbidden there when grown. Therefore, decide among the family in advance what is allowed and forbidden.

  • Safety pens and crates: Consider arranging a dedicated area for the puppy, for example, using a puppy pen. You can section off part of a room or, for example, use a gate in the kitchen to create an area where the puppy stays when you cannot supervise it. An open transport crate or a lightweight crate can also serve as the puppy's own nest. Ideally, the crate is a pleasant safe place for the puppy, where it can retreat to sleep or eat peacefully. Note that the crate or pen should never be used as punishment but as a positive resting place. Place it where the puppy can see the family's activities (not isolated in a storage room), so it feels part of the pack's daily life. Temporarily, a crate or pen helps keep the puppy safe, for example, when you must answer the doorbell or phone and do not want the puppy to get into trouble in the meantime.

  • Acquiring supplies: Reserve all necessary puppy supplies in advance. This way, you won't have to rush to the store immediately after the puppy arrives home, and you can calmly focus on the newcomer. At a minimum, you will need: food and treats, food and water bowls, a suitably sized collar or harness and leash, a comfortable dog bed or other sleeping place, a few different toys (e.g., a chew toy for teething, a soft toy for comfort), as well as a brush/comb and nail scissors for grooming. Additionally, many owners benefit from pee pads in the early stages (especially in apartment buildings), but more on these in the section about house training. A more detailed shopping list can be found, for example, in the Finnish Kennel Club's “We are getting a puppy” guides and puppy shopping lists in online stores.


When the home is puppy-proofed, you can welcome your new friend with confidence. Reserve plenty of time at home on the puppy's settling-in day and the following days – the puppy's first days in the new environment are crucial for building the relationship and a sense of security. If possible, take vacation or remote work days for the first week or two.

The first days in the new home

When picking up the puppy from the breeder, remember to prepare for the journey yourself as well. The trip home can be an exciting and even frightening experience for the puppy: all familiar things – the mother, siblings, and old environment – are left behind, and the puppy is transported in a strange car with unfamiliar people. Bring a soft towel or blanket for the trip, which you can place in the transport box or on your lap for the puppy; it is good to spray this blanket beforehand with the calming natural scent of the mother and puppies or pheromone (e.g., Adaptil spray). Travel so that someone is always beside the puppy taking care of it – a small puppy should never be left alone, for example, in the car trunk. Keep your demeanor relaxed and calm during the drive: if the puppy cries or is restless, speak to it soothingly but remain composed. The first car ride is already a big step for the little one.


When arriving home, allow the puppy to explore the new environment calmly. Many puppies eagerly start exploring as soon as the initial excitement subsides. You can sit down on the floor at the puppy's level and simply keep it company, offering treats and praise if you wish, as the puppy gains confidence to explore the home. All new sounds, smells, and objects tire the puppy quickly – so remember that the puppy also needs rest amidst all this newness. In the first days, it is advisable to avoid too much noise: keep visitors under control and give the puppy and your family a few days of peaceful coexistence before relatives and neighbors rush in to admire the puppy. If you have small children, guide them to be calm with the puppy at first – no running races or forcibly pulling the puppy into arms, but gentle play on the floor and allowing the puppy to sleep occasionally during the activity.


First meetings with possible other pets should be handled in a controlled manner. If there are already dogs at home, a neutral ground is preferred: take the older dog for a short walk first, while the puppy gets to explore the new home's scented rooms without the other dog. Then bring the older dog outside and arrange the dogs' first meeting outdoors calmly, preferably both on leashes but loosely, so they can sniff each other peacefully. Most adult dogs accept the puppy as part of the pack – although they may not be immediately thrilled, they usually tolerate the puppy's antics surprisingly patiently. Still, it is important to supervise and ensure the older dog does not become too stressed: provide it with its own quiet place where the puppy cannot disturb. The same principle applies to introducing cats and other animals: controlled short encounters, escape routes for the animals, and plenty of positive reinforcement (treats, praise) whenever they are calm near each other.


Family daily rules should be implemented immediately so that the puppy learns manners from the start. For example, on the very first day, you can begin teaching the puppy its own name and recall (more on this in the training section). Also agree among family members on consistent rules: if you decide that the puppy is not allowed on the sofa or in the bedroom in the future, maintain this boundary already as a puppy, no matter how adorably it tries to sleep next to you. The same applies to biting, begging, and other manners training – decide what is allowed and what is not, and be consistent. Consistency and anticipation are key in training. It is much easier to prevent unwanted behavior in advance than to correct problems afterward. Practically, this means removing temptations (hide shoes, put the trash can under a lid) and offering allowed activities (toys, chew bones) instead, so the puppy rarely even gets the chance to misbehave.


Tip: Many breeders give the puppy familiar food as well as, for example, a blanket scented with the mother and litter. Take advantage of these: keep the food the same at first (see feeding details below) and place the blanket from the whelping box in the puppy's sleeping area to provide security during the first days in the new home.

The first night and the puppy's sleep

The first night in a new home usually makes the puppy nervous (and a bit the owner too!). The puppy may cry at night out of loneliness, which is completely understandable – after all, it may be the first time in its life separated from its pack. The general recommendation is not to leave the small puppy to sleep alone in a separate space during the first nights. The safest solution is to arrange sleeping so that the puppy is close to a person: for example, you can place the puppy's bed in the bedroom next to your bed, or alternatively, you can sleep next to the puppy in the living room for the first couple of nights. If the puppy is intended to sleep in a different room later, you can gradually get it used to the distance – for example, the first night on a mattress next to the puppy, the next a couple of meters away on the sofa, and then move to your own room once the puppy is accustomed to the sounds of the new home. You can also keep the bedroom door open and place a puppy pen or carrier by the door, so the puppy can hear and smell that you are nearby.


Night awakenings: A young puppy physically cannot hold it for very long, so be prepared for one or two nighttime awakenings at first. The puppy may need to pee in the middle of the night – if it whines restlessly, pick it up and take it outside calmly and unobtrusively. It is not advisable to play or chatter too much with the puppy at night. For example, you can just stand quietly outside and wait for the puppy to do its business, after which you return quietly to sleep. Communication during dark and quiet times is kept to a minimum so the puppy learns that night is for sleeping. Sometimes it is said that the puppy should be woken up at night to go out, but this is not necessary: frequent outings during the day are usually enough to learn cleanliness indoors, as long as accidents are cleaned properly (more on this later). Often the puppy adapts within a couple of weeks to sleep at least 6–7 hours straight at night.


Puppy cries at night, what to do? If/when the puppy whines during the first nights, the most important thing is to gently show presence without it turning into a play session. You can lower your hand towards the puppy so it can feel your scent and warmth. Many puppies calm down when they can curl up, for example, next to a person or on their feet to sleep – you can allow this, but be prepared to gradually get the puppy used to its own bed. If you decide from the start that the puppy will not sleep on the bed or sofa, be consistent despite the heartache of hearing the little one cry. You can sit next to the puppy bed, stroke calmly, and speak in a low, comforting voice. Usually, the puppy calms down as long as it feels it is not alone. However, do not get excited and start cooing happily or playing in the dark – otherwise, the puppy learns that it gets attention at night and will continue to demand it.


Night and daytime sleep: The puppy needs a tremendous amount of sleep to support its growth – typically 18–20 hours a day for a puppy aged 0–6 months. This surprises many! It is often said that a puppy's days consist of "play, eat, sleep" cycles, which is an apt description. So ensure the puppy gets enough sleep during the day, as all new experiences tax its brain and body. Arrange a quiet sleeping place for the puppy where it will not be disturbed: for example, a corner of the living room where you place a comfortable bed or blanket. Many puppies like somewhat cave-like sleeping places, such as a bed built under a table or chair. You can also accustom the puppy to a soft crate with the door open, giving it its own peace there. It is important that the family's children (and adults too!) have the patience to let the puppy sleep undisturbed. The puppy can sleep deeply for even a couple of hours at a time during naps – you should also use this time to rest if sleepless nights weigh on you. Sufficient sleep is vital for the puppy's growth, learning, and mood. You will surely notice the difference in behavior: a tired puppy is irritable and more lively, whereas a well-rested puppy can concentrate and learn better.


In summary: make the puppy's first nights as safe and gentle as possible. Keep the rhythm calm, be present, but don't worry too much if there is a little whining at night. After a few nights, the new arrival will likely sleep more confidently.

Puppy hiding under sofa with a stolen sock

The puppy's daily rhythm: feeding, outdoor time, and rest

Puppy life includes recurring routines that fulfill the puppy's basic needs. The day usually consists of alternating eating, outdoor time, play/learning, and sleeping. A consistent daily rhythm helps both the puppy and the owner – when the daily routine stabilizes, the puppy feels safe and learns to anticipate when it's mealtime, when it's time to go outside, etc. In this section, we cover three important areas of puppy life: feeding, outdoor time (including house training), and rest during the day.

Feeding and nutrition

Proper nutrition is vital for the puppy's growth and well-being. Many breeders provide familiar food with the puppy pack for a few days – use this food first so that there is no immediate dietary change in addition to the environmental change. If you want to change the brand of food, do so gradually by mixing the new food with the old over about a week transition period, as a sudden change can cause diarrhea. The puppy's food must be a complete diet specifically for a growing dog: the nutrients required by a puppy (proteins, fats, vitamins, and the correct calcium-phosphorus ratio) differ from those of an adult dog. Therefore, choose a high-quality puppy dry food or wet food that states it is suitable for puppies (and preferably also for the expected adult weight class of the puppy – there are different puppy foods for large and small breeds). If you want to feed partly homemade food or raw food, consult experts to ensure the diet is balanced. The easiest option for a first-timer is usually a ready complete feed. Water should be available fresh at all times, and the puppy usually knows how to drink according to its needs.


Feeding frequency: A small puppy needs several meals a day because its stomach is small but its energy needs are high. The general guideline is that a 7–8 week old puppy at the time of weaning eats 3–4 times a day, approximately every 4 hours. Practically, for example, in the morning, at noon, in the afternoon, and in the evening. At about 4 months of age, the number of meals can be reduced to three times a day (morning, noon, evening) and at about 6–7 months of age to twice a day (morning and evening). Most dogs transition to 1–2 meals a day as adults; many owners also prefer two meals for adult dogs to avoid digestive problems, although in principle an adult dog can manage with one larger meal per day. Keep the feeding routine as regular as possible – puppies appreciate predictability. Offer meal times at the same times, and leave the bowl available for about 10–15 minutes at a time. If the puppy does not eat everything, remove the bowl and offer it again at the next feeding time. Treats and training rewards are of course also part of puppy life, but keep their amount reasonable: it is recommended that treats make up at most ~10% of the daily total calories to prevent the puppy from gaining weight. You can reduce the daily food amount slightly if you give many treats during training.


Monitor your puppy's body condition. The puppy should grow solidly but not overweight: the ribs should just barely be felt under a thin layer of fat. During the growth phase, puppies often appear slender and long-legged (“awkward teenage dog phase” is a completely normal stage), but if you are uncertain about the puppy's weight or food amounts, do not hesitate to ask a veterinarian or dog breeder for advice. The puppy's appetite may vary daily. If the puppy suddenly starts consistently leaving its food, check that the portion is not too large and that the puppy is not receiving too many treats throughout the day. Vomiting on an empty stomach (yellow foam, usually in the morning) can be a sign of too long intervals between feedings – in that case, return to a more frequent feeding schedule.

Outdoor activities and house training

Start outdoor training right from the beginning: Many first-time owners ask if it is safe to take a small puppy outside before vaccinations take effect. The answer is yes – the puppy should be accustomed to outdoor activities immediately, and house training begins from the very first day. Although vaccination protection is not yet complete, the puppy can still safely go outside in low-risk areas. Just avoid places where many unvaccinated dogs or their feces are present (e.g., dog parks are not a good place for a young puppy's health or development). Instead, your own yard, the front of the house, forest trails, and familiar dog friends are good outdoor destinations even for puppies under 12 weeks old.


Learning to pee and poop: House training requires time, patience, and very frequent outdoor trips in the initial phase. The guideline is that the puppy is taken outside always when it has woken up, eaten, or played for a moment. In practice, during the first weeks, the puppy should be taken outside every hour or two while awake, even more often. The more often you offer the puppy the opportunity to relieve itself in the right place (outside), the more likely successes will be and the faster the puppy will understand the idea. It may take a while outside to explore all kinds of smells and stimuli before the puppy remembers its need to pee – so be patient and give it time. When the puppy finally pees/poops outside, praise it profusely and immediately give a treat as a reward. You can also associate a command word with the action (e.g., “do pee”), which the puppy will later learn to associate with relieving itself. Excessive praising may feel silly standing in the backyard in the middle of the night, but it really works – the puppy learns that going outside is desirable and produces a pleasant outcome (reward).


What about accidents inside? They will certainly happen to every puppy owner – do not get discouraged. The most important thing is to clean up urine and feces neutrally, without scolding the puppy. Never shove the puppy's face into the puddle or yell at it – it will not understand why you are angry, but may only learn to hide its needs in the future. If you catch your puppy in the act inside, you can gently interrupt (“oops, let's go outside”) and carry the puppy outside to finish in the right place. Clean up indoor accidents with, for example, an enzymatic cleaner that effectively removes odor residues (special cleaning products for this purpose are sold in pet stores). Regular cleaners or vinegar may not mask the smell from the puppy's sensitive nose.


Potty pads: In some cases, house-training is supported by using newspapers or potty pads indoors. For example, in high-rise apartments, this can be practical at first when the puppy simply cannot get outside in time. If you use pads, place them in the hallway or one spot, and guide the puppy to them for its needs. However, try to transition to outdoor elimination as soon as possible. The more the puppy learns that it is allowed to go inside (even on the pad), the harder it may be later to understand why it is no longer allowed to pee inside. Many prefer to take the puppy directly outside and skip the pads – choose the method that suits your home.


When is a puppy completely house-trained? There is a lot of individual variation. A small puppy (under 3 months) physiologically cannot hold it for more than a couple of hours, and many dogs only become fully house-trained around 10–12 months of age. Some faster, others slower. So do not worry if there are occasional puddles even at six months – that is normal. Patience and consistent guidance will eventually yield results. Puppyhood is just a phase, and house-training is one of its great lessons for us humans in terms of patience.

Outdoor activity and amount of exercise

The puppy is full of energy in short bursts, but remember that it is still a child. Regarding exercise, quality is more important than quantity. Puppies under six months should not be physically overexerted because their bones and joints are still developing. Avoid long walks, strenuous jumping, or running up and down stairs – all such activities strain growing joints. A common guideline is the so-called 5-minute rule: add 5 minutes of walking time for each month of age. So a 2-month-old puppy ~10 minutes continuous walk, 3 months ~15 minutes, 6 months ~30 minutes. However, these are indicative – the most important thing is to observe the puppy. Puppy exercise is often playful activity and exploring the environment, not purposeful long-distance walking. Short walks several times a day are better than one marathon walk. The puppy tires quickly: many 2–3-month-old puppies fall asleep after just a few hundred meters of walking. Then pick it up and carry it home – the puppy must not be overexerted, as it may develop negative experiences of outdoor activity. Remember that the puppy's skeleton continues to develop for months, so only at about one year old (large breeds even 1.5 years) is your dog ready for really long walks. All in good time!


What kind of exercise should be offered to the puppy then? Free romping on a soft surface is the best possible exercise for a small puppy. When the puppy can set the pace itself in the forest or yard – running, climbing small rocks, digging, dashing – its motor skills develop naturally and muscles strengthen in a versatile way. Forest terrain with varied surfaces develops balance and coordination much better than asphalt walks. Of course, free roaming requires a safe place and some recall training (we cover recall in the training section). If free outdoor time is not possible, try to walk the puppy in varied places: on grass, in a park, on sandy paths.


The content of outdoor activity is more important than the length. Utilize the puppy's natural curiosity and eagerness to explore. Let it sniff everything: blades of grass, stones, the neighbor's mailbox. The world is a vast sensory fireworks display for the puppy, and a slow leash walk exploring all the smells is mentally more tiring (and rewarding) for the puppy than a long run without the opportunity to smell. You can think of each new environmental element as part of socialization and habituation (more on these in the next chapter). The puppy learns the sounds of the city, the whoosh of cars, passing people and dogs – all these are important experiences while outdoors.


During outdoor time, both exercise and training occur (house training, walking on a loose leash, recall, etc.). However, also remember rest after walks: a small puppy may need long naps after each outdoor session to recover from the experiences. Too much activity without calming down can make the puppy overtired, which often manifests as hyperactivity and biting. The puppy does not always know how to calm down itself, so it is the owner's task to structure the day – a calm return home from outside and a moment spent searching for treats or chewing a chew toy can help lower the energy level before sleep.


What if the puppy does not want to go outside yet? Some puppies are initially hesitant to go outside (especially in winter, when the cold ground may be intimidating). Do not force the puppy far from home during the first days. You can easily let it relieve itself in the yard and then return indoors: the most important thing is that going outside is a positive experience. You can carry the puppy a short distance from the front door and then set it down – often the return trip goes more briskly when heading toward safety. Also try different times of day. Puppies often become more confident quickly as they age and their curiosity grows. After a few weeks of acclimation, many love going outside so much that they tend to pull on the leash – that phase then begins the actual training of leash behavior.


Summary of exercise: Allow the puppy plenty of free play and exploration in a safe environment, ensure it does not harm itself (no high jumps, no exhausting strain), and keep walks short but interesting in a puppy-appropriate way. When you keep in mind that every outdoor trip is also a training opportunity and an adventure from the puppy's perspective, you will naturally fulfill both exercise and learning goals.

Socialization – new experiences and getting used to the environment

Socialization means systematically accustoming the puppy to different environments, people, animals, and stimuli during its sensitive developmental period. The most important socialization phase for a puppy occurs at about 3–14 weeks of age, and about half of that time is usually spent with the new owner (the puppy typically comes home at around 7–8 weeks old). This few-week period is invaluable: the puppy approaches everything new with curiosity and openness, so now is the time to show it the wonders of the world. At the same time, remember that a small puppy needs rest every day – not everything should or can be absorbed at once. Next, we will go through how to proceed with socialization.


Vaccinations and the outside world: As previously stated, the puppy does not need to be isolated indoors while waiting for vaccination protection – on the contrary, a puppy raised within four walls loses invaluable experiences. Studies show that antibodies received from the mother usually protect the puppy until 12 weeks old, when vaccinations begin. This means that at 8-12 weeks of age, the puppy can and should meet other dogs in a controlled manner. However, choose dog companions wisely: preferably a familiar, healthy, and vaccinated adult dog known to be gentle with puppies. For example, a calm adult dog from a neighbor or a similarly sized puppy from a friend are good playmates. I do not recommend dog parks with a very young puppy – there is both a risk of disease and a risk of bad experiences if large unfamiliar dogs scare the puppy. If you want to provide dog contacts, it is better to arrange one-on-one play sessions with familiar dogs first. Later, when the puppy is brave and has received all vaccinations, you can try dog parks as well, but under supervision and outside of busy times.


Different people: It is advisable to accustom the puppy to all kinds of people – big, small, men, women, and those dressed differently. However, ensure that the experiences are positive. Invite guests home separately at a calm pace: for example, children of different ages, bearded men, people wearing hats, etc. All these look different in the puppy's eyes. Ask guests to give the puppy a treat and pet it if the puppy approaches. If the puppy is hesitant, do not force it into a lap – the guest can sit on the floor and wait for curiosity to win. Gradually, the puppy's confidence will grow. Also, outside you will meet all kinds of people: do not be alarmed if the puppy barks at a tram passenger with a walker – it is just new. Try to react neutrally, talk to the puppy cheerfully, and show by example that there is nothing scary about a stranger.


Different animals: Most likely, your puppy will encounter cats, horses, or perhaps neighborhood rabbits during its life. If you have your own cat, start the introduction early in a controlled manner – for example, the cat in its own room behind a gate, first sniffing through the door crack. You can show the puppy a horse on a leash from a sufficient distance so it gets used to a large four-legged animal. Of course, you cannot show everything in advance (no need to take the puppy to the zoo to smell a tiger – it is unlikely to encounter one again in life), but it is good to introduce the typical animal species of your living environment. A puppy raised in the countryside should see, for example, cows or sheep from behind a fence, while a city puppy should see other dogs and perhaps city rabbits from a distance. The goal of socialization is for the puppy to learn to consider different creatures as a normal part of life and not be frightened when it encounters them later.


Environments and places: Try to gradually take the puppy to various places. Initially, of course, the home yard and nearby streets become familiar, but once the puppy has gained confidence, you can make small trips to different environments: forest, beach, quiet shopping centers, the edge of a dog training field to watch, city center (carrying in your arms or bag if the crowd is heavy), etc. Habituation means getting used to environmental stimuli – the puppy learns that cars hum, bicycles whiz, trains clatter, vacuum cleaners make noise. All of this is worth practicing. Let the puppy observe from a distance at first: for example, the vacuum cleaner first turned off, then briefly running in another room, gradually closer. If the puppy is nervous about a device or sound, increase the distance and reward – you can even play a little distance away while the vacuum runs so the puppy notices the device is not dangerous. The same applies to traffic sounds: sit in a calm place and let the puppy watch, rewarding with treats when a truck passes by, etc. Soon it will become an everyday background sound.


Playdates and puppy classes: Socialization also includes learning the dogs' own language. The puppy learns best dog body language and social skills by playing with other dogs. So arrange suitable playmates – for example, a friend's puppy or a balanced adult dog who can play with the puppy (of course under supervision). A good tip is to participate in a puppy class, which dog schools organize. In a puppy class, your dog receives important training (basic skills) and contact with other puppies of the same age in a safe environment. Additionally, you gain confidence in training matters yourself. Often puppy classes start at about 3–4 months of age, when the puppy has received at least the first vaccinations – check local dog schools for offerings.


Calming down between new experiences: An important part of socialization is also teaching the puppy to recover. After each new adventure, take a break. If you went to the city on Monday, keep Tuesday a bit calmer as a home day. A small puppy does not need a new wonderful activity outside the home every day. In fact, too much activity can cause stress for the puppy, which accumulates as exhaustion or fear. Quality experiences are more important than quantity. A few minutes at a time is enough to practice a new thing. So enjoy new experiences with your puppy, but also remember to relax and recharge.

Puppy play and controlling biting

One of the most common challenges new owners face is puppy biting. The needle-sharp little teeth pierce the skin painfully, and many get worried: “Do I have an angry dog because it bites?” No worries – practically all puppies bite, more or less. Biting is natural for a puppy as it uses its mouth for play, exploring the environment, and relieving the itch caused by teething. Next, we will explain how to guide this behavior in the right direction.


Why does the puppy bite? Biting has different nuances: the puppy may play roughly by biting hands or pant legs, it may protest by chewing when prevented from doing something, or it may simply chew on anything to relieve the itch caused by teething. First and foremost, make sure the puppy always has allowed chew toys within reach. Rubber or rope toys, chew bones, or frozen rags provide permitted chewing, and often the puppy eagerly grabs them if they are more interesting than human toes. So arrange a “toy sea” at home – as humorously stated in Kuono.fi's puppy guide, there should be so many toys and allowed chew items on the floor that people almost trip over them. This increases the likelihood that the puppy will pick the allowed object instead of the forbidden one.


Changing the direction of biting: When the puppy nips your hand during play, stop the play immediately, show that it hurt (for example, you can briefly yelp “ouch!”) and pull your hand away. At the same time, stop all attention for a moment. This sends the message that biting too hard ends the fun play. Wait a few seconds and then offer the puppy a toy to chew on – when it grabs it, praise and continue playing with the toy. This way the puppy learns that human skin is not a chew toy, but its own toys can be chewed. Be consistent: every time the puppy bites your hand or ankle, the game stops immediately. All family members must follow the same approach so the puppy does not get confused. It is especially important to practice this with children. Children often scream and wave their arms, which easily excites the puppy more – teach children that the best way is to freeze and leave the room for a moment if the puppy gets too wild.


Help the puppy calm down: Puppies often have wild “evening crazies”, when the activity becomes intense and teeth are used on everything moving. At such times, the primary survival strategy is to remove yourself from the line of fire for a moment to calm the situation. For example, you can go behind a gate to another room for a couple of minutes or place the puppy briefly in its own fenced or crate area with a chew bone. The goal is not to punish but to give both parties a short timeout. Often hyperactivity is also caused by tiredness – many puppies are most rambunctious just before falling asleep. Then the solution is simple: pick up the puppy and put it to rest. Often a little fussing turns into a peaceful nap within minutes once the puppy is calmed down.


Never physical punishment: Although biting teeth are frustrating, avoid punishing the puppy harshly. Do not shout, slap, choke, or shake by the neck – such actions can at worst frighten the puppy or provoke it to defend itself. Strong punishment can also weaken your trust. Studies show that dogs learn best through rewards and that unwanted behavior ceases when it is not rewarded (in this case, withdrawing attention is punishment in itself). Gentle consistency wins. Remember: this biting phase does not last forever! When the puppy’s teeth change and it learns what it may and may not bite, the situation improves within a few months.


Chewing on furniture and items: Often, household objects are also targets for biting – chair legs, carpet corners, shoes… The same prevention largely applies as above: keep forbidden items out of reach and allow the puppy plenty of permitted chew toys. If the puppy absolutely fixates on the wrong target (e.g., an electrical cord), you can try a bitter-tasting spray on the cords. These are available at pet stores – they are substances that taste bad to dogs. However, not all puppies are deterred by them. A more reliable method is to supervise the puppy and interrupt whenever it starts chewing something forbidden: immediately switch to an allowed toy and praise the puppy when it chews it. Over time, the puppy will learn which items belong to its “chew class.” Still, to be honest, some damage occurs in almost all puppy households – to quote a famous saying: “a dog is a pack animal, and a puppy is a destructive animal”. A small tooth mark on a furniture corner or a torn sock is part of the process. With proper guidance, however, you can avoid bigger disasters and keep your home intact.


Playing with toys: Encourage the puppy to play with you using toys so that it releases energy in allowed ways. Tug-of-war games are favorites for many puppies – with a long plush rope, you can pull in a tug competition. Let the puppy win sometimes to build its confidence. You can practice exchanging the toy for a treat so that the puppy also lets go of its prey when needed (e.g., you say "drop it" and offer a treat, upon which the puppy drops the toy and gets the treat, and then the play continues). This prevents conflict where the puppy learns to guard its toy. Interactive play also strengthens your relationship and helps teach the puppy to control its bite pressure. When it accidentally bites too hard on the toy and hits your hand, you can yelp and stop the play for a moment – gradually the puppy begins to regulate its bite strength. This is called learning bite inhibition, and a dog should ideally have it as an adult (meaning it knows how hard it can touch a person without causing pain). In a litter, siblings teach this to each other: if a bite is too hard, the play ends. You now continue the teaching in human language.

Being alone – how to practice with your puppy

One of the most important skills for a puppy is to learn to be alone at home. A dog is a pack animal for whom being alone is not naturally pleasant – therefore, it must be gradually accustomed to it so that separation situations do not cause unnecessary stress. Start alone time exercises early: already from the second day you can do a small test where the puppy is left alone for a few seconds.


Start of training: Choose a moment when the puppy is just tired out (e.g., after playing and going outside, having eaten and is drowsy preparing for a nap). Make the environment safe – you can confine the puppy, for example, to the kitchen with a gate or place it in its familiar crate/pen, where it has a comfortable bed and a chew toy. Say briefly, e.g., "wait here," and leave the sight. At first, go only to another room for a few seconds and then calmly return. Ideally, the puppy does not even notice your absence, for example, if it was chewing a bone. Repeat these mini exercises several times a day. When the puppy does not react to your disappearance for a few seconds, you can gradually extend the time – a minute, a couple of minutes, etc. Then you can start making exits through the front door: quickly go out, for example, to the trash bin and come back. Repeat often so that the puppy forms the understanding that, oh yes, you always leave and come back.


Important: Make departures and returns everyday occurrences. Do not say goodbye to the puppy in an overly dramatic way (“bye bye darling, mom will be back soon, be brave!”), because then it senses that something special is happening. Leave normally, as if you were just going to the bathroom. Likewise, when you return, avoid big emotional outbursts. Greet the puppy calmly and pause a moment before gentle petting. If every homecoming is a huge celebration, the puppy starts to expect it like the moon rising and may become restless when alone. Of course, seeing the puppy delights the owner, but try to keep calm. You can, for example, first take off your coat, go to the bathroom, and then properly greet the puppy – this signals that absences and returns are the most natural thing in the world, and your leaving need not be stressed over.


Schedule and progress: Indeed, start with seconds and gradually move on to longer periods. Usually, within a couple of weeks, the puppy can be left alone at home for 15–30 minutes after proper training. A good goal is that by 4–5 months of age, the puppy can be alone quietly for a couple of hours. Then you can, for example, go to the store without worry. The puppy gets used to being alone better the more consistently it is trained. This skill must also be maintained – if the puppy has been with you 24/7 and never left alone, the situation may become more difficult later. So take advantage of opportunities: leave the puppy to sleep in another room for a nap and occupy yourself elsewhere. This way, it learns that a person does not always have to be nearby.


Activate and calm for alone time: Before a longer period alone, ensure that the puppy has expended energy and relieved itself. A tired puppy is more likely to fall asleep contentedly when you leave. You can give a special treat for the alone time, such as a filled activity toy (a rubber Kong filled with something super tasty) or a delicious chew bone. This serves both as stimulation and conditions the puppy that nice things happen when left alone (it gets a treat). Some puppies calm down when a quiet radio or so-called white noise is playing in the background – you can try if a light soundscape helps. Others prefer to rest in a completely quiet home.


Conditions for alone time: Define a safe area for the puppy during alone times. As mentioned earlier, you can use a puppy playpen or a closed room where the puppy cannot destroy dangerous objects. If house training is still in progress, be prepared for the possibility of a puddle after a long alone time: place, for example, newspapers in a certain corner to facilitate cleaning. Do not punish the puppy even if you find urine upon returning home – the accident happened some time ago, so scolding will not help. Clean quietly and focus on ensuring next time that the alone time does not exceed the puppy's tolerance.


Maximum duration of being alone: A small puppy should not be left alone for hours. To put it bluntly: get a dog only if you can arrange your life so that it does not have to suffer from loneliness constantly. Usually, a 2–3 month old puppy can tolerate being alone for about an hour, at 4–5 months a few hours – if well trained. An adult dog is recommended to be alone for no more than 6–8 hours at a time. So if you work a full day, arrange a caregiver for the puppy, take it to work, or take a proper break and gradually accustom it to being alone before leaving the dog alone for the entire workday. Many working people also use dog walkers or dog daycare, which is a good solution for an active puppy. Asking for help is not a weakness – on the contrary, it is responsible dog ownership.


If the puppy reacts very strongly to being alone (prolonged barking, destruction, anxiety), the situation should be assessed without delay. You may need the help of an experienced trainer. However, most puppies learn the basics without problems as long as training starts early and progresses gradually.


Note: The ability to be alone is one of the most stressful issues for owners – and this stress often transfers to the dog as well. Try to remain relaxed yourself. If you do not make being alone a "big deal", the puppy will likely accept it as part of everyday life. Especially now, in the post-pandemic period, many families are undergoing significant changes as dogs also need to get used to being apart from their owners more. Therefore, make alone-time training a small daily routine so it proceeds naturally.


Two small beagle puppies getting acquainted with a transport crate. A crate or enclosure can serve as a safe den for the dog, where it can rest peacefully. When the puppy is taught to view the crate as a positive place, it can be used to assist with learning to be alone as well as, for example, travel safety. The puppies in the picture have a cushion in the crate to add coziness.

Basic training and teaching behavioral habits

Dog training begins immediately after the puppy settles into its new home – in fact, every moment is a learning opportunity for the little dog. The puppy constantly absorbs behavior patterns and rules about what is allowed and what is forbidden, so it is wise to guide it towards desired behaviors from the start. In this chapter, we go through the most important puppy training topics: name and recall, basics of leash walking, sit/down commands, good manners (e.g., no stealing from the table, no jumping on people), getting used to handling, and other useful skills.


Teaching the name: Choose a name for the puppy that is easy to pronounce and preferably distinct from other speech (two-syllable names like "Riku", "Rosa" work well). When the puppy is at home, start reinforcing the name immediately: say the puppy's name in a cheerful voice followed by something nice ("Rekku, come!") and when the puppy looks or comes to you, praise and give a treat. Repeat many times a day – soon the puppy will realize that its own name means "look at the person, something good is happening". Avoid using the name for scolding (do not shout "Rekku NO!" constantly) so that the name remains a positive call. If you notice you have said the name too harshly, "reset" the situation by saying it again kindly soon after and reward. The puppy usually learns its name within a few days to a week.


Recall (come command): One of the most important skills to keep your dog safe and under control when needed. Start training indoors: squat a few meters away, open your arms, and call the puppy cheerfully: "Rekku, come!" If necessary, you can pat your knees or wave a toy. As soon as the puppy moves towards you, praise it on the way: "Good coming, well done!" and when it arrives, give a super reward (treat + enthusiastic praise + petting). Do these at home in different rooms, also from a slightly longer distance. Always make recall worth a jackpot for the puppy: do not skimp on praise or treats. When moving outside, start with an easy situation – call the puppy occasionally while it is sniffing nearby and reward it. Never punish the dog for coming to you, even if you are upset about something. Many make the mistake of grabbing the puppy angrily inside when it finally comes from the back of the yard – the puppy associates this so that recall leads to the end of a nice walk and the owner's bad mood. Then it certainly will not want to come next time. Even if it is frustrating sometimes that the puppy delays, praise it anyway when it finally obeys – and practice more to become more reliable. Always keep the call to come positive. Escape phases often occur during adolescence, but you are now laying the foundation for recall.


Walking on a leash: Start training in the home environment. First, let the puppy get used to the collar or harness indoors for a few minutes at a time. Attach a light leash and let the puppy wander without pulling it. Praise and reward when the puppy moves forward with the leash behind it. The first “walks” are usually a few meters of exploration, during which the puppy stops, sits, maybe pulls backward, or rolls on the ground with the leash behind it – all this is normal. Avoid pulling the puppy behind you. Instead, crouch a little ahead and call cheerfully, encouraging movement with a treat. When the puppy takes a few steps beside you, praise gently. From the start, you can reward the puppy when it walks on a loose leash beside or behind you. If the leash tightens (e.g., the puppy wants to rush somewhere), do not chase after it hastily – stop, call the puppy back to you, and continue only when the leash loosens. This way, the puppy learns that pulling does not get it forward. This requires consistency but pays off in easier walks in the future. Remember that leash behavior is one of the most difficult skills and takes time – but every leash walk is an opportunity to practice.


“Sit” and “down”: The classics of basic obedience that can be well taught to a little puppy. Take advantage of feeding situations: hold a treat in front of the puppy's nose and slowly raise it above its head – usually the puppy will naturally sit down while following the treat with its eyes. Say “sit” at that exact moment, praise, and give the treat. A few repetitions a day, and the puppy will associate the word with the action. The same applies to “down”: once the puppy knows how to sit, bring the treat in front of its snout and lower it towards the ground between the front legs of the sitting puppy. It will likely lie down to reach the treat. Then say “down” (or “lie down” etc.), praise, and reward. The puppy may also offer these positions on its own – those familiar with clicker training can use the clicker to mark the correct action and reward. Remember to keep the training sessions short and fun. A small puppy cannot concentrate for many minutes, so prefer several 2–3 minute sessions a day rather than one long one.


No jumping, no biting, no begging – manners in order: The puppy learns the house rules quickly if they are taught consistently.

 Jumping on tables/stools: When you are eating or cooking, the puppy should learn to stay in its own place. You can put a bed for it in the kitchen and whenever it tries to jump on you or look at the table, guide it back to its place and give it something to do (a toy). Reward when it stays on the floor. Jumping on people: This is natural for many dogs; they want to greet face to face. Decide if you want to allow it. Most do not want a large adult dog jumping, so teach it from puppyhood: when you come home and the puppy jumps, turn your back to it for a moment (do not push it down with your hands, it will think you are playing) and only reward when all paws are on the ground. Ask guests to do the same. Soon the puppy will notice that four paws on the ground = attention, jumping = being ignored. Consistency is important here as well – what is forbidden once is always forbidden. On the other hand, if you decide to allow the dog to come into your lap on the sofa, you cannot later scold it for that. The choice is yours as a family, but be fair to the dog and keep the rules clear.


Giving up on command (leave it): For everyday safety, it is invaluable that the dog knows how to release something interesting when necessary. Teach the puppy from an early age "leave it" or "drop it". You can practice during play: the puppy is chewing a toy -> show a treat and say "drop it" -> when the puppy drops the toy, immediately reward with the treat and then give the toy back. This way the puppy does not need to guard the treasure, knowing it will get it (or the treat) back. As a second exercise, you can put a treat in your fist, let the puppy sniff it and say "leave it" -> when the puppy lets go and no longer tries to dig for the treat, open your hand and give the treat (or a better treat from the other hand). This teaches self-control. "Leave it" is useful outdoors when something suspicious is found on the ground – the puppy gets used to giving up on command because with permission it might get something better. The puppy learns to trust that your word is in its best interest.

Handling and care procedures: We mentioned earlier that it is advisable to get the puppy used daily to, for example, touching its paws, looking at its teeth, checking its ears, etc. Continue this. Make handling moments pleasant: pet the puppy when it is calm, gently roll its toes in your fingers and give a treat at the same time. Lift the puppy into your lap a few times a day, hold it for a second or two, and put it down, so it learns that being in your lap is not a terrible forced situation (this will later ease, for example, nail trimming). You can also teach the puppy to lie relaxed on its side: this facilitates examination at the vet. Nail trimming should be started immediately when the puppy arrives – even if you only manage to trim one nail at a time. Give the puppy something really enjoyable to chew on (e.g., toothpaste to lick) and gently clip one nail tip while doing so. The next day, clip another. Soon you may be able to trim two or three nails at once. The puppy gets used to the fact that trimming does not hurt and learns to associate it with treats. Do not wait until the nails need to be trimmed, but start before it is necessary – it is easier for everyone. The same goes for brushing: a few strokes with the brush and a treat afterward, so grooming will be effortless as an adult.


Brushing teeth is also something you can get the puppy used to early on. At first, you can just let the puppy lick dog toothpaste (e.g., a flavor it likes) from your finger while gently touching its lips. Gradually progress to using a finger cloth or the puppy's toothbrush. Dog teeth change around 4–6 months of age, and daily brushing is recommended for permanent teeth care. Routines learned as a puppy make this much easier.


Calming down on command: The puppy is lively, but it can also be taught to enter "chill" mode. A good exercise is teaching the puppy to go to the mat. Whenever the puppy goes on its own to lie down on its bed or mat, quietly praise it and calmly give it a treat. The puppy wonders: "oh, when I go here, a treat comes from heaven." It will start to seek its resting place more often. You can add a cue word, e.g., "place" or "go to bed," when you see the puppy about to go. Also in everyday life, when the puppy is running around excitedly, you can ask it to come beside you, pet it calmly, and even gently hold its chest so it notices it is in your lap – usually after a few seconds the puppy sighs and calms down in your lap. Then immediately let it down, when it is relaxed for a moment. This teaches that by calming down, it can continue the activity. This emotional control can be practiced in many situations and is useful, for example, when the doorbell rings and you want the dog to learn to wait calmly before rushing to the door (this, however, is more advanced and requires patience training). The puppy will gradually learn to distinguish when it is playtime and when it is rest time.


Traveling by car: Acclimate your puppy to car travel in small steps. You were already in the car on the way home, but continue the exercises: take the puppy into the car, feed it treats there, keep the engine running for a moment, and then take it out. Next time, a short drive around the block. A few minutes is enough at first. Reward the puppy at the end with a nice walk. This way, the car becomes a neutral thing. Avoid very long car trips as a puppy unless necessary. If the puppy feels sick in the car, consult a veterinarian – there are motion sickness medications available. However, acclimation often helps, and the puppy gets used to rides as it ages. It is important that the car is safe: use a rear trunk with a puppy net, safety harnesses, or a transport box. Things happen with puppies, so keep it under control also in the car so that it does not, for example, disturb the driver by jumping into their lap.


Puppy school and social suitability: I warmly recommend taking your puppy to guided training as soon as it can be kept in a group from the vaccination perspective. In the puppy course, a professional trainer will guide you, and the puppy will simultaneously get socialization and learn to work amidst distractions. The course usually teaches recall, contact, release, sitting, lying down, leash walking, and other basic skills – the same ones you would practice yourself, but there you get help with problem areas and confidence in your actions. Additionally, the course is an energy-consuming experience for many puppies, meaning you get a calm dog at home in the evening. If attending a course is not possible, there are plenty of good books and online resources. For example, Tuire Kaimio's “Raising a Puppy” is an excellent Finnish book with instructions based on positive reinforcement for almost everything. Many free guide videos can also be found online – however, make sure you follow a modern training perspective. Unfortunately, outdated “leadership doctrines” and violent methods are still found in the depths of the internet, and at worst, they can ruin a good relationship with your dog. Therefore, refrain from methods where the dog is respected as a sentient being and is guided kindly with consistent means. Such training will give you a confident, obedient adult dog that wants to obey you with joy.


Finally: be ready to change your mindset as a trainer. Raising a puppy also teaches you patience, perseverance, and a sense of humor. Not every day will be perfect – there will be setbacks and frustrations. The most important thing is that you try your best and learn along the way. Sometimes you learn the hard way what does not work (perhaps you have already noticed that shouting only makes the puppy think you also want to play loudly). Dogs are forgiving; they do not hate you even if you sometimes raise your voice or make a mistake in training. Keep persevering and celebrate small progress steps. Also remember to always end training sessions on a success: for example, if the puppy makes many mistakes while training recall, go back to an easier level (shorter distance) and end with a good performance, after which you can go play. This way, the puppy will have a positive impression of training.

Puppy's health and well-being

Although your daily life largely focuses on training and managing everyday tasks, do not forget the puppy's health care. The first year of life is full of veterinary visits and growth-related changes, which you should prepare for in advance. Next, we list the most important health-related matters that a new puppy owner should remember:


  • Veterinary check-up: Most breeders arrange a basic veterinary check-up for the litter before handover, and the puppy may come to its new home with a certificate from the veterinarian. Nevertheless, it is good practice to schedule your own visit to the veterinarian within a few weeks of the puppy's arrival. The doctor will check the puppy's general condition, discuss the vaccination and deworming schedule with you, and answer your questions. This “puppy check-up” also lays the foundation for preventing fear of the veterinarian – try to make the visit a pleasant experience (lots of treats and praise for the puppy there).

  • Vaccinations: In Finland, dogs are vaccinated against distemper, parvovirus, and infectious canine hepatitis (adenovirus), as well as rabies. Additionally, kennel cough vaccine (parainfluenza) is recommended for dogs that actively meet other dogs. The vaccination schedule typically goes as follows: the first vaccination is given at about 12 weeks of age, a booster at 14–16 weeks (including rabies), and then a booster at one year of age. After this, the basic vaccines are renewed every 2–3 years. Check with your veterinarian for recommendations, as schedules may vary slightly. It is very important to administer vaccinations on time so that the puppy gains protection against serious diseases. Without vaccinations, the dog cannot, for example, attend dog training schools or daycares, and traveling abroad requires a valid rabies vaccination. Therefore, mark the vaccination dates on your calendar and keep the vaccination certificate (now also electronically in the Omakoira service).

  • Parasite treatment (deworming): Puppies are usually dewormed several times by the breeder before being handed over (e.g., at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age). Find out when your puppy last received deworming medication and which product was used. Generally, deworming is recommended to be repeated about 2 weeks after the puppy has arrived at the new home, and then again at, for example, 4 months, 6 months, and 12 months of age. As an adult, the dog is dewormed as needed – for example, before vaccinations or if worms are suspected. Nowadays, it is recommended to examine a fecal sample before deworming as a precaution, because unnecessary medication is not beneficial. Parasites are common in the puppy stage and are treated routinely. Medications effective against the most common intestinal worms are available at pharmacies without a prescription. Use the weighed dosage according to the puppy's weight and follow the instructions carefully. Typical puppy parasites are roundworms – if you see spaghetti-like worms in the puppy's stool or vomit, get deworming medication immediately. Deworming medications are reasonably safe, but dosage is important.

  • External and internal parasite control: In addition to deworming, it is important to be aware of other parasites. Fleas are rare in indoor dogs in Finland, but ticks (wood ticks) are a problem during the warm season. If you live or walk in an area where ticks are present, consider starting tick protection early in the spring. There are several products available: topical solutions, collar types, oral tablets. Consult a veterinarian about what is suitable for your puppy (usually nothing is given to very young puppies under 8 weeks). Always check the puppy after outdoor activities, especially when moving in fields and forests, and remove any ticks with tick tweezers. Eye drops, ear drops: Monitor the puppy's eyes and ears. Puppies may develop eye infections (discharge, redness), which are treated with veterinarian-prescribed drops. Ears, especially in floppy-eared dogs, may become red from yeast or bacteria – if the ear smells bad or the dog scratches its head a lot, visit a vet. Diarrhea and vomiting: A young puppy has a sensitive stomach, so changes in diet or stress can cause loose stools. Usually, mild diarrhea for one day or occasional vomiting is not dangerous as long as the puppy is willing to eat and drink. Offer easily digestible food (e.g., boiled chicken and rice in small portions) and pause treats. However: if the puppy is very lethargic, vomits continuously, or diarrhea is bloody or lasts more than 24 hours, go to the veterinarian. Puppies dehydrate quickly and need help. It is better to have a check-up early than to wait too long.

  • Accident prevention: The puppy is like a toddler – it hurts itself if there are hazards. The most common puppy accidents are falls (from the sofa, bed, stairs), which you can prevent by being vigilant. Do not leave the puppy alone in high places, and gate off the top and bottom of stairs. If you have a balcony at home, ensure the puppy cannot slip through the railings or try to climb on the edge. Chewing also involves a choking hazard: remove all small objects and choose the puppy's toys so that it cannot tear off pieces and swallow them. Xylitol gum, chocolate, grapes, onions, and certain other foods are toxic to dogs – keep them off tables and floors.

  • Growth pains and skeletal development: The puppy grows at a rapid pace. Larger breeds may experience growth pains (the puppy limps alternately on different legs, is sensitive). Keep exercise moderate during growth spurts and minimize slipping (put rag rugs on slippery floors, for example). Small bumps and strains usually heal with rest, but if any soreness worries you, contact a veterinarian. Remember that due to joint development, weight must not accumulate excessively – stick to the feeding plan. Also ask your veterinarian about supplements (e.g., large breeds sometimes benefit from extra vitamin D or joint supplements, but only on a professional's recommendation to avoid overdose).

  • Sterilization/neutering: In Finland, dogs are not automatically sterilized/neutered by a certain age unlike in some countries. The matter is up to the owner's discretion and depends, among other things, on the breed, the dog's health issues, and intended use. If you do not intend to breed puppies or engage in breeding activities, surgery can be beneficial for health – for example, sterilization can prevent uterine infections and mammary tumors in females. Dog sterilization/neutering is usually done no earlier than 6–9 months of age or after the female's first heat. However, there is no need to worry about this during puppyhood – discuss it with your veterinarian as the puppy approaches adolescence. Weight management must be monitored after surgery because metabolism slows down.

  • External appearance and coat care: Get the puppy used to brushing from a young age as mentioned. Especially if you have a long-haired or curly-haired breed, coat care requires getting accustomed to. Keep the coat tangle-free already as a puppy (tangles irritate the skin). Teach the puppy to tolerate washing as well – warm water and rinsing the paws in the shower should be done occasionally so the dog does not later fear washing situations. Use dog shampoo diluted if necessary. Dry thoroughly to prevent the puppy from catching a cold. Often, actual coat care increases only as the dog matures, but the groundwork is done during puppyhood. Dressing the dog may also be necessary for small breeds in cold climates: practice dressing briefly at home and reward, so the puppy associates clothes with positive things.

  • Ears, eyes, and nails: Make weekly checks a routine. Look into your puppy's ears – they should be clean and pink inside, with no wax buildup or foul-smelling discharge. Clean ears only when necessary with a product recommended by a veterinarian, and only on the outer ear (wiping with a cotton pad). Wipe eye discharge as needed with a moistened cotton pad (boiled water, saline, or pharmacy eye wipes are suitable). Nails should be trimmed at least once a week – the more often you trim, the more the nail quick recedes and the nails stay short. Initially, the puppy only needs a small tip trimmed, as the nails are needle-sharp. Praise the puppy after each nail and take breaks as needed.

  • Oral health: When playing with your puppy, you can occasionally gently open its mouth and look at the teeth. Get the puppy used to having its mouth touched a little – this will make dental checks easier later. The puppy's baby teeth start to fall out at about 4 months of age, and all permanent teeth usually have erupted by around 6–7 months. You may find individual teeth on the floor, or they may fall out unnoticed. However, monitor that double teeth do not remain (e.g., a permanent tooth grows but the baby tooth does not fall out). This problem is most common with the canine teeth. If after six months you clearly see two teeth side by side, consult a veterinarian – sometimes a stubborn baby tooth must be removed, usually at the same time as spaying/neutering. It is advisable to start brushing teeth at the latest when permanent teeth have come in. Plaque accumulates in just a few months. Teach brushing gradually as mentioned above. Use toothpaste made for dogs (e.g., liver pâté flavor) and a soft brush. Many dogs learn to actually enjoy tooth brushing if it is done gently and routinely. Good oral hygiene prevents gingivitis and extends your dog's lifespan, so the effort is worthwhile!


Finally, the most important aspect of puppy health monitoring is general well-being. A lively, playful puppy that eats and relieves itself normally is likely healthy. If the puppy becomes very lethargic, hides, refuses food, or suddenly drinks a lot of water, these may be signs of illness. A slight fever (a dog's normal body temperature is 38–39°C) can occur after vaccination or intense exercise, but a fever over 39.5°C without an obvious cause is a reason to call the veterinarian. With serious symptoms, it is not advisable to "wait and see too long" with the puppy – better one unnecessary visit than an untreated problem. With good basic care and nutrition, the puppy usually stays healthy. Also remember parasite protection: protect your puppy from ticks as needed, wash paws when coming in from road salt or splashes, and provide a good and safe growth environment.

Last but not least, I want to emphasize mental well-being. A happy, stimulated puppy is a healthy puppy. So take care of the mental side: play, teach, pet, let it sniff – arrange experiences of success in the puppy's life and use positive reinforcement in training. This way you build a foundation for a dog that trusts you and is mentally well throughout its life.

Vet checking an puppy

Supporting your own endurance in puppy life

Puppy life can surprise you with its toughness. Many new owners describe feeling "inadequate as a dog caretaker" when things don't go smoothly – the puppy may cry at night, there might be pee on the carpet for the fifth time that day, your own sleep is fragmented, and maybe the thought creeps in: "What have I gotten myself into, I can't take it anymore!". First of all: these feelings are normal. As we mentioned at the beginning of the article, up to half of new dog owners experience some degree of "puppy blues" during the puppy period, meaning sadness, frustration, or anxiety. According to studies, the phenomenon is as common as baby blues in human parents and passes with time. So don't blame yourself if you don't constantly feel pure happiness and pink cuteness overload. Puppy life is tough, but you will get through it, and the reward is a long, wonderful life together with your beloved dog friend.

Here are some tips to support your own endurance:


  • Sleep whenever you can: Sleep deprivation erodes patience. Use the puppy's naps to rest – the dishes can wait, prioritize your own recovery. If the puppy keeps you awake at night, try alternating night care shifts with a family member or ask a friend to watch the puppy for one night so you can get some sleep. The sleep situation will improve soon as the puppy grows and learns to sleep through the night.

  • Ask for help and keep track: Try to arrange even short breaks for yourself from the puppy. Maybe a friend or relative could watch the puppy for an hour so you can calmly go to the store or for a walk alone. Some puppy owners find peer support, for example, at local dog parks or puppy meetups – when you see that others also have difficulties sometimes, you don't feel like a failure. There are also groups and forums online to support the puppy period, where you can vent your worries. Of course, it is wise to approach online advice critically, but from the perspective of peer support, they can be helpful.

  • Arrange personal time: Even though you love your puppy, everyone sometimes needs a moment without being responsible for another being. If there are several adults in the family, agree on “free evenings” – one takes care of the puppy while the other goes to a hobby or meets friends, and then switch. Those living alone should take advantage of, for example, dog care services or family members occasionally. This does not make you a bad owner; on the contrary: when your mind rests for a moment, you will be better able to be patient and consistent with the puppy.

  • Remember that difficult phases pass: The puppy's development progresses quickly. The first weeks are often the most intense (pee accidents, interrupted nights). Then comes the adolescence at around ~6–9 months of age, which can bring its own challenges (learning is temporarily forgotten, boundaries are tested). But eventually, at about 1–2 years of age, you will have a much calmer, trained dog. Many owners remember the puppy time fondly afterwards (memory is merciful) and even miss those funny mishaps – time gilds memories even of the puppy phase. When you are tired right now, remind yourself: this is just a phase.

  • Be consistent, but flexible in less important matters: You cannot be a superhero in everything. Decide which aspects of training are the most critical for you (e.g., house training, being alone) and stick to them. If another matter slips (e.g., the puppy gets on the sofa even though you thought it shouldn't), it is not the end of the world. You can correct the course later, or perhaps you will learn that the dog's place on the living room sofa corner is actually okay. Do not be too hard on yourself, but forgive yourself and the puppy for mistakes. In dog training, there are always surprises – that is normal.

  • Seek professional help if needed: If you feel that things are not going well at all or some behavior causes great concern (e.g., the puppy is very fearful or aggressive), do not hesitate to consult a professional. A good behavior trainer (dog trainer, animal trainer's AT) or veterinarian can advise you. They have seen it all before, so you are not alone with your troubles. The earlier you address problems, the easier they often resolve, so boldly pick up the phone. Nowadays, remote consultations are also available, for example via video, if a suitable trainer cannot be found nearby.

  • Enjoy those wonderful moments: Although puppy life can be exhausting, it is also a unique time that passes quickly. Take lots of photos and videos – literally, you will notice even a week later how much the puppy has already grown. Enjoy the puppy's endless curiosity, its funny sleeping positions, its softness, and innocence. You are now building the foundation for up to 15 years of friendship, so try to find moments of joy every day. Often, those small milestones (the first time it sits on command, the first time it sleeps 6 hours straight, the first time it asks to go outside at the door…) bring a huge sense of accomplishment. Capture these moments, as they will carry you through the tougher days.


In summary: take good care of yourself as well while caring for the puppy. A well-being owner is the best possible owner for their dog. Your dog does not expect perfection from you – it is enough that you are a safe, loving companion who does their best. ❤️

Frequently Asked Questions about Puppy Care (FAQ)

How long does it take for a puppy to learn house training?

It varies. Some puppies learn to be almost completely house-trained by 4–5 months of age, while others need almost up to a year before accidents stop entirely. Puppies usually learn to hold it at night last. Physiologically, a puppy can properly hold it only at about 6 months of age, and most dogs are fully house-trained by 10–12 months at the latest. Remember, accidents happen to everyone along the way – do not get discouraged by them. With consistent outdoor breaks and rewards, house training will surely progress.

Does the puppy need to be woken up at night to pee?

Not necessarily. Usually, it is enough to take the puppy out to relieve itself just before bedtime and immediately upon waking in the morning. A young puppy may not be able to hold it until morning, so be prepared for one nighttime pee break if the puppy starts waking or whining during the night. But if it is sleeping, there is no need to deliberately wake it – rather, the owner should set an alarm to wake themselves, for example, 4 hours after going to bed and then take the puppy outside. Many puppies sleep several hours straight at night without needing to go out, and taking them outside at night does not significantly speed up house training. The most important thing is that if you go outside at night, keep the activity very calm (no playing or chatting, just a quick bathroom break). This way, the puppy does not learn that it is allowed to be rowdy at night.

How do I teach a puppy to be alone at home without crying?

Start alone-time training in small steps as soon as the puppy has settled in. Leave the puppy alone for just seconds in another room at first and return before it gets upset. Gradually increase the delays. Always give the puppy something to do (chew bone, toy) when you leave. Initially, you can just stand outside the door for a few seconds and come back. The puppy learns that you always return. When you leave and come back, do it without fuss – do not make a big deal out of leaving or returning. If the puppy whines, you may have been gone too long too soon – lighten the training and proceed more slowly. Practice several times a day. The ultimate goal is that the puppy can stay alone calmly for, for example, a couple of hours. Remember that every dog is an individual: some adapt in a week, others need a couple of months of training. Consistency is key. If the puppy suffers from severe separation anxiety (howling nonstop, destroying door frames, etc.), seek help from a professional trainer – severe separation anxiety is difficult to resolve alone.

What to do when a puppy bites hands and feet?

This is very common behavior in puppies. Do this: as soon as the little teeth touch your skin, let out a sharp "ouch!" or say firmly "no biting" and stop the play immediately. Detach yourself from the puppy (stand up or leave for a moment). The puppy learns that biting ends the pleasant interaction. Give the puppy plenty of allowed chew toys to satisfy its need to bite. If the puppy bites at ankles, keep a toy ready and slip it into the puppy's mouth as "prey" as soon as the teeth try to grab the leg – praise when it bites the toy and not your ankle. Consistency is most important: all family members follow the same approach always. Also ensure the puppy is not overtired or overly excited when it bites a lot – take a short break and have the puppy calm down for a moment; often the biting episode passes when the puppy gets some sleep or something else to think about. Never hit or physically punish the puppy for biting, it only makes the situation worse (the puppy may get scared or think it is play). The biting phase eases with age and tooth replacement, as long as you consistently guide the puppy towards proper behavior.

When does the puppy calm down – it seems to be wild all the time?

A small puppy is active, but it also sleeps most of the day (up to 18–20 hours/day). If the puppy seems “overstimulated” constantly, it is often a sign of tiredness. Therefore, ensure the puppy gets enough sleep and quiet time. Try to schedule the day's play and walks so that after them the puppy really rests and does not run around constantly chasing new stimuli. Usually, towards the evening many puppies experience the so-called “evening crazies” – that is the wild hour before bedtime. Try to anticipate this: keep the evening walk fairly calm, then offer the puppy food and perhaps a chew bone, and gradually reduce activities as the evening progresses. If the puppy still runs in circles at eight in the evening, you can try putting it on a leash next to you or in your lap to calm down for a moment. Often, when the excitement is gently interrupted, the puppy yawns and falls asleep quite soon. The puppy will naturally calm down with age – the first 3–4 months are the most lively time, but after that you will gradually notice the dog’s more mature behavior increasing. A one-year-old dog is already considerably calmer than a 4-month-old puppy, provided basic training has been done.

How often should a puppy be fed and how much food does it need?

A puppy ready for adoption (approx. 2 months old) is fed 3–4 times a day. Often the breeder has provided instructions on feeding amounts – follow them initially. The feeding amounts depend on the puppy's size and type of food. Usually, dry food bags have portion tables based on weight. Avoid overfeeding, as too rapid growth is not good for the skeleton. The puppy may eat until full at each meal, but treats should be given in moderation. At about 4–5 months of age, the number of meals is reduced to three, and at 6–7 months to two per day. For puppies of heavy breeds, feeding times may be kept at three longer to avoid too large a portion at once. Remember to keep water constantly available – a puppy drinks about 0.5 dl of water per kilogram of body weight per day (i.e., a 5 kg puppy ~2.5 dl). If the puppy drinks significantly more than this and urinates a lot, consult a veterinarian; otherwise, the amount of thirst is influenced by the saltiness of the food and exercise.

What foods should a puppy not eat?

The most important forbidden items: chocolate, xylitol (sweetener, e.g., chewing gums, lozenges), grapes and raisins, onion (and large amounts of garlic), avocado, macadamia nuts, raw pork (risk of Aujeszky's disease). Additionally, coffee, alcohol, and other intoxicants are, of course, an absolute no. Also avoid giving salted or spiced foods, as a dog's body cannot tolerate much salt or strong spices. Hard raw bones are also unsuitable for a small puppy – eating them can damage teeth or intestines. If you want to give a bone, choose a chew bone from a pet store or ask a veterinarian about safe alternatives. Reminder: keep xylitol gum LOCKED away, do not leave chocolate bars on tables, and inform family members that dogs must not be given, for example, chocolate cake at parties. Small amounts accidentally eaten (e.g., one chocolate-filled biscuit) are unlikely to be dangerous, but prevention is better. If an accident occurs (the dog eats something toxic), contact a veterinarian immediately.

When can a puppy meet other dogs? And can it be taken to a dog park?

A puppy can meet familiar, healthy, and vaccinated dogs immediately after coming home. In fact, it is even recommended, as the socialization period lasts only a few weeks after weaning. Good first friends include, for example, adult dogs of family members or friends known to be puppy-friendly. Supervise the encounters and allow the dogs to get to know each other calmly. Most adults understand that it is a baby and know how to be cautious. If an older dog growls at the puppy, it is normal communication behavior – the puppy learns to respect others' boundaries. Intervene only if the situation seems to escalate or either dog clearly becomes stressed. It is advisable to avoid dog parks during the puppy phase or approach them cautiously. You can use them to arrange puppy playdates with familiar dogs, but avoid busy times when many large unknown dogs are present. A small puppy may have a bad experience from overly rough play, which can affect its attitude towards dogs later. As the puppy grows and becomes more confident, you can certainly visit dog parks more often. Also remember that a puppy under 16 weeks old is still developing its vaccination protection, so there is a small risk of disease in dog park soil. Therefore, prefer the first play sessions with familiar and vaccinated dogs. Puppy classes are an excellent and safe place to socialize the puppy with peers.

How much exercise does a small puppy need?

Surprisingly little! The puppy's need for exercise is largely met by its own play and exploring the environment. Of course, the puppy must be taken outside often to relieve itself and sniff around, but these are not actual fitness walks. A few short (5–15 min) walks per day are enough physical exercise for a 2–4 month old puppy. In addition, there is of course romping in the yard, toys, playing at home, etc. More important than duration is quality: the puppy's movement should be versatile and free. Stairs or high jumps should not be made at all before the puppy is bigger. Carry the puppy if necessary. A good rule of thumb is: the puppy must not pant from exhaustion after exercise. A little breathlessness from playing is okay, but if the puppy is completely exhausted, it has been overexerted. The puppy should rather be left wanting more activity than be completely worn out. You can always increase exercise later as the puppy grows. Too much exercise early on can cause growth disorders or other problems, so increase the length of walks very gradually. I would say that for most medium-sized dogs, it is suitable to start doing, for example, half-hour walks at about 6 months of age. And running with a human only after 12 months, when the skeleton has matured. Patience is key – the puppy itself will sprint and then collapse on its side to sleep, that is a message to you too.

When can I take my puppy to dog school or activities?

You can join puppy courses as soon as the puppy has received its vaccinations – usually courses start at about 3–4 months of age. There are even courses for puppies under 3 months (so-called puppy play school), which you can attend after the first vaccination. For hobbies, many trainers accept dogs to beginner courses at the latest around 6 months of age, depending somewhat on the activity. For example, in agility it is recommended to wait until the dog is physically developed (starting obstacles at 12 months), but basic skills and puppy agility can be done at a younger age. Obedience, nosework, rally obedience, show training – all of these can be started as a puppy, as long as the training is adapted to the puppy's endurance. It is advisable to take advantage of the puppy's learning ability and curiosity early, because it is natural for it to absorb new things then. The most important thing is that the hobby is not too serious – the puppy must be allowed to be a puppy and have fun, even when "training".

Puppy eats trash and other forbidden things from the ground, what should I do?

Everything goes into the mouth – this is so true with puppies! Stones, sticks, leaves, cigarette butts, all treasures. First of all: clean away from your home area and floors anything you do not want the puppy to eat. Outdoors, practice letting go (leave command) so you can prevent the most dangerous finds. With a small puppy, the practically best method is control on a leash and directing attention elsewhere. So when you see something on the ground that the puppy is eyeing, praise it in advance and offer a treat before it manages to snap anything. If it gets some trash in its mouth, try to exchange it for a treat – often the puppy drops the trash when it smells the treat. Do not rush to chase the puppy or forcibly pry its mouth open (although, of course, if it is something life-threatening, you must remove it). Running after it too much can make it a fun “prey game” for the puppy, so next time it will deliberately grab something and run away because it knows you will react. Try to stay neutral: “let's swap, would you prefer a treat?”. Over time, the leave/drop command develops, and you can use it to prevent many situations. It is also important that the puppy is not too bored while outside – keep its attention on you and toys/treats, so scavenging from the ground decreases. But honestly, every puppy eats and chews things, that is normal. Just make sure it does not get to eat anything poisonous or dangerously sharp/large. A small pebble or clod of dirt probably won't harm, but for example, gravel or dog feces (hygiene) should be prevented.

Is it allowed to go to a dog park or dog events with a puppy before all vaccinations have been received?

It is advisable to socialize a puppy in different places even before the vaccination protection is complete, as long as common sense is used. Dog parks are a bit too wild places during the puppy phase, where the risks (diseases, bad experiences) may outweigh the benefits. So I do not recommend taking an 8–14-week-old puppy to a large public dog park where dozens of unknown dogs visit daily. Instead, you can go to various dog events (shows, puppy meetups, etc.) as long as the puppy is not in an area with many dog droppings and does not lick other dogs' urine from the ground. For example, a match show (a playful dog show) can often be attended by a puppy with puppy vaccinations – check the event rules. Controlled puppy play schools are organized indoors (e.g., dog school facilities), where participants are required to have at least one vaccination – the risks here are low and the benefits high. Overall: use your own judgment. For example, you can take a small puppy in your arms to a dog-friendly café or hardware store to sit, and it will have a great experience of new environments without even being touched by any strange dog. The most important thing is to socialize, but safely.

When can I start taking longer walks with my puppy?

This touches on exercise: long walks are not part of a young puppy's routine. However, at around 6 months of age, many puppies can already manage several kilometers of a calm walk, as long as the pace suits them. Generally, I would expect more strenuous activities such as cycling, running, jumping in agility, etc., around 12 months of age. But the length of walks can be increased week by week as the puppy grows. Just remember to monitor the puppy: if it stops frequently, gets out of breath, or wants to lie down, it is tired. Then take a break or return home. To prevent joint problems during growth, it is good to avoid repetitive trotting on asphalt for long periods. Change surfaces, keep the pace leisurely, and allow the puppy to also jog freely (on a soft surface) part of the time; this is a more natural movement than walking on a leash beside you. Note: Some breeds (e.g., brachycephalic) do not tolerate physical exertion in the same way – be especially careful with heat to prevent the puppy from overheating. Always bring water on walks longer than 15 minutes. If you engage in running, you can accustom your dog to running with short sprints on a leash from about 8–10 months of age, but it will only become a proper running companion once its skeleton has strengthened. You can see when a dog is fully grown by its withers height: when the dog has reached its adult size (length), the bones have mostly grown. After that, the musculature still strengthens. Often, 1 year of age is a good milestone to lengthen walks, but you could have started acclimating earlier. In all exercise, remember that the dog is an individual: some border collies can handle long hikes already at 10 months, while a mastiff puppy may still be quite a slowpoke even at one year. Listen to your dog.

The puppy barks a lot – is this normal and what should I do?

Some puppies bark more easily than others. Barking is a natural form of communication for dogs, but excessive barking can become a problem. A puppy may bark, for example, while playing (excitement), out of frustration (e.g., if it cannot reach something), when scared, or upon noticing something new (doorbell, passerby). The first step is to determine why the puppy is barking. If it barks to get attention, try not to respond to the barking – do not shout "quiet" (the puppy might think you are barking along) but rather turn your back or leave for a moment. Reward the puppy when it quiets down, even for half a second at first, and then offer a task (a toy, etc.). If the puppy barks outside out of fear of something, do not punish it – it would only become more frightened. Instead, move a little away from the object, praise and reward the puppy when it is quiet and looks at you, for example. Gradually desensitize. Barking when alone: This is a sign of separation anxiety or boredom – see the alone time section for tips. If necessary, record the dog when alone to determine whether it barks continuously or only briefly. Play and attention barking is somewhat benign, but it can develop into a problem if the puppy learns it always gets what it wants by barking. Therefore, consistently try not to reinforce unnecessary barking. For example, if the puppy barks at you on the sofa because it wants to play – wait until it is quiet for a moment, then praise and start playing. This way, it learns that silence works better. Patience is important: do not get frustrated; the puppy's barking is not "disobedience" but its way of communicating. Your task is to teach it when barking is acceptable (guarding, etc., if you want that) and when it is not, and to offer alternatives (e.g., come ask to play by bringing a toy, not by barking). If the barking is very intense and difficult to control, seek help from a trainer. Also remember that some breeds are genetically very prone to barking – with them, you will need to put more effort into training.

When can a puppy be taken to the groomer for the first time?

If you have a breed that is groomed (e.g., poodle, terriers for plucking trim, spaniels), the puppy can be taken to a familiarization visit to the groomer at a very young age, even at 3–4 months old. Many groomers offer a so-called puppy package, where no major cutting is done yet, but standing on the table, blow-drying, handling paws, etc., are practiced. This is highly recommended because experiences learned as a puppy with the groomer greatly ease future grooming sessions. The actual coat care needs depend on the breed – for example, a poodle should be groomed every 6–8 weeks throughout its life, so start early. Those aiming for dog shows often groom for the first time before 6 months of age. Ask the breeder or breed club for tips on good groomers in your area, and when booking, mention that it is a puppy's first time so they can reserve extra time and patience. Bring plenty of treats to reward the puppy during the procedures, either by the groomer or yourself.

Is it normal to regret getting a puppy?

Perhaps surprising, but yes – many recognize this feeling during the puppy's first weeks. Whether we call it "puppy owner's remorse days" or puppy blues, it is quite common. Sleep deprivation, the burden of responsibility, and the challenges of puppy life can bring the mood down and make one long for the carefree life without a dog. This does not mean that you don't love your puppy – feelings can just become turbulent with a major life change. According to research, over 40% of dog owners have experienced strong negative emotions during the puppy phase. Keep in mind that this phase is temporary. As the puppy grows and daily life becomes routine, negative feelings usually fade. Many describe that after just a few months a good bond with the dog has formed, and thoughts of giving up or similar disappear. However, if you constantly feel deep anxiety or anger towards the puppy, seek help – talk to a more experienced dog owner or, if necessary, a professional (therapist, trainer). Under no circumstances release frustration through violence towards the puppy. Rest, ask for help, take time for yourself. It may help to make a list of pros and cons: you will see that the pros (puppy love, shared joys) likely outweigh the cons (puddles on the carpet). All in all: yes, it is normal to doubt your decision when you are tired. But trust the process – soon you will notice that you wouldn't trade your dog for anything in the world.

How long does the puppy period last?

Physically, a dog is a puppy until about 6–7 months of age, when adolescence begins. The mental "puppy age" continues in many breeds until about 1–1.5 years old; in larger breeds, full adulthood comes around 2–3 years. Generally, however, it can be said that the first year is the most intensive time for learning and growth. Then the dog usually calms down a bit. Of course, learning continues throughout life, but the foundation is laid as a puppy. Some things (such as playfulness) remain throughout life – others (such as endless romping) fade with age. So enjoy the puppy time, it is unique, but also remember that it does not last forever.

Should the dog be insured?

Pet insurance is highly recommended, although not mandatory. Veterinary costs in Finland can rise to thousands of euros, for example, in an accident or illness requiring surgery. The insurance price is usually a few hundred euros per year, and it provides peace of mind that you can care for your dog in the best possible way if something happens. Many breeders have an extended insurance valid for the first weeks for their litter, which the new owner can continue in their own name if desired (ask the breeder/insurance company). It is advisable to take out insurance at the latest before visiting the vet for vaccinations – this way, possible latent defects are usually covered. Compare different companies and choose the appropriate level (basic coverage or extended, which also covers medical expenses such as allergies). Of course, insurance does not cover prevention: the best "insurance" is to care for the dog well, prevent accidents, and take care of health, but despite that, not everything can be prevented, and then financial security also eases your own stress.